Leveling up on Mexican Avenue Meals at Santa Barbara’s Taqueria La Unica

In one more signal of the upward trajectory of Santa Barbara’s meals scene, the higher State Avenue constructing which as soon as held Taco Bell is now residence to Taqueria La Unica, the most recent restaurant from the Los Agaves Restaurant Group. 

Talking of indicators, the one for Taqueria La Unica says, “Est. 2021,” the birthplace of the idea, say the homeowners, however the precise venue at 3771 State St. has solely been open a couple of months. Launched this spring as an outpost for conventional Mexican avenue tacos and different taqueria favorites, the restaurant took some time to search out its footing. Beginning with the truth that the neighbors in close by San Roque and Hope Ranch have been anticipating a brand new quick informal idea, however wanted a menu they might perceive — the primary rendition of the fairly intensive menu was in Spanish solely, which slowed down the road as a result of individuals had a LOT of questions. 

The skin of Taqueria La Unica | Credit score: Ingrid Bostrom

Now fortunately translated — with further explanations for among the much less acquainted objects — the menu and kitchen of Taqueria La Unica are rapidly turning into a neighborhood mainstay below the steering of Chef Gerardo Marin, one in all three cooks (the others are Richard Garcia and Danny Reyes) who oversee the entire delicacies for the Los Agaves group. That enterprise now consists of 5 places of the flagship Los Agaves (the unique Milpas Avenue, De la Vina Avenue, Market Drive in Goleta, Westlake Village, and Oxnard), in addition to Flor de Maíz on the waterfront, and Santo Mezcal on decrease State Avenue. 

The notion of elevated Mexican meals is the first throughline for all of householders Carlos and Christian Luna’s ideas, and regardless of the title, the emphasis at Taqueria La Unica is extra on meats (al pastor, skirt steak, sirloin steak, hen, strip loin, tongue/lengua, head/cabeza, picanha steak, brief rib, cheek, lip, rib eye, bone marrow, beef birria, suadero, chorizo/longaniza, tripe, and campechana/seafood) than it’s on tacos. 

Chef Gerardo Marin | Credit score: Ingrid Bostrom

These are the flavors of avenue meals you’d discover in Mexico Metropolis and Guadalajara, shared Chef Marin. He not too long ago walked us by means of among the menu highlights, all of which have been new to me, even if I had been to Taqueria La Unica a couple of instances earlier than, which supplies you some thought of how intensive the menu is.

For starters we tried the home made guacamole with tostadas with a beneficiant portion of chips. Then there was the Elote De Pueblo, which is their model of the favored corn on the cob with mayo, recent cheese, bitter cream, and pequin pepper. It’s not simple to eat gracefully — or to share — however this tackle genuine Mexican avenue corn is unquestionably tasty. This was adopted by pinto beans with cheese, an elevated model of the refried bean dip my mother used to make after I was a child. 

Subsequent up, the Taco Al Pastor, garnished with pineapple, onion, and cilantro. “Everybody loves and is aware of Al Pastor,” says Marin. “Al Pastor is king as a result of Al Pastor could be very acquainted in all elements of the world.” Eager to broaden our horizons additional into what he calls “the actual delicacies and flavors of Mexico,” the Mexico Metropolis native then had us attempt the Costras with tongue, which has a cheese crust wrapped across the tongue (it tastes like, uh, meat, and was effectively seasoned — if I didn’t realize it was la lengua I wouldn’t have given it a second thought) on high of a corn tortilla. It was tasty, however a bit troublesome to eat with a plastic fork and knife, which is all they’ve obtainable.

“Alambres La Unica is our hottest menu merchandise,” says Marin, as he had us do this fabulous (and big) mixture of sirloin steak, picanha steak, chorizo, onion, anaheim chili, mushrooms, and deliciously melty cheese. No shock that this was in all probability my favourite merchandise of the evening. The shrimp alambres are my go-to order at Los Agaves, and despite the fact that the flavour of the La Unica Alambres — additionally obtainable in variations with skirt steak and bacon (Norteno), and al pastor, hen, and picanha steak (Que Me Ves) — is a bit heavier and heartier, the successful mixture of savory meats and melty cheese is hard to beat. 

The Skirt Steak Volcanes, served on a corn tostada with refried pinto beans, have been good, however undoubtedly wanted salsa — and fortuitously there’s a lot. Every of the Los Agaves’s group eating places has its personal intensive number of salsa. The Salsa Puya, with puya-dried chile sauce, is my favourite of this bunch. It’s a bit much like guajillo however has a bit extra kick to it. The Tacos Santa Barbara — a home specialty, made with grilled anaheim chili, al pastor, cheese, and avocado on mushy corn tortilla — have been fairly good as effectively. I beloved the intense crunchiness of the radish garnish. 

Clockwise from high left: Tacos Santa Barbara, Tacos El Pastor, Pinto Beans with Cheese, Burrito Del Rey, Alambres La Unica, and Costras La Lengua | Credit score: Ingrid Bostrom

Even with attempting small bites of every little thing I used to be stuffed at this level, however Marin introduced out the Burrito Del Rey, made with al pastor, chihuahua cheese, refried pinto beans, rice, pineapple, onion, and cilantro, a intelligent concoction which stayed intact as I dug in to attempt a chunk (one in all my pet peeves is exploding burritos). I took it residence for lunch the following day and it was simply nearly as good reheated. We didn’t even get to the Tortas, Mexican sandwiches obtainable with a wide range of meat choices, together with al pastor, suadero, head, campechana, birria (braised beef), and milanesa (breaded beef).

I had the quesabirria (beef birria with cheese tacos) on a earlier go to and loved it immensely — the birria torta is unquestionably on my checklist for subsequent time. Marin additionally encourages the desserts, which embody strawberries with selfmade whip cream and cookies and conventional Mexican rice pudding. Largely although, he simply needs individuals to, “Come to the taqueria and take a look at the actual flavors of Mexico and the very best taqueria on the town.”

“The place our household is from in Jalisco, among the best meals could be discovered proper on the streets — it’s superb, there’s nothing else prefer it!” stated proprietor Carlos Luna when Taqueria La Unica first opened. “We wished to recreate the expertise that transports our friends to the streets of Mexico, the place the flavors are daring, the spices are fiery, and the tacos are at all times recent.” 

I don’t know concerning the streets of Mexico, however on the uptown streets of S.B., Taqueria La Unica is unquestionably on its strategy to reputation: I noticed 5 individuals I knew in line throughout my go to! 

With a full of life open kitchen idea, loads of indoor and out of doors seating, and a beer and wine license within the works, there’s no purpose to not assume that Taqueria La Unica is effectively on its strategy to turning into as a lot of a mainstay because the Los Agaves Group’s different eating places. My solely criticism: the plastic silverware doesn’t fairly reduce it (actually) with this degree of delicacies. That one repair they usually’ll have a transparent winner on their palms.

See taquerialaunica.com.